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History Ascent to Mount Everest
In 1953, a ninth British expedition, led by John Hunt, returned to Nepal. Hunt selected two climbing pairs to attempt to reach the summit. The first pair (Tom Bourdillon and Charles Evans) came within 300 feet of the summit on 26 May, but turned back after becoming exhausted. The next day, the expedition made its second and final assault on the summit with its second climbing pair. The summit was eventually reached at 11:30 a.m. local time on May 29, 1953 by the New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay from Nepal climbing the South Col Route. At the time, both acknowledged it as a team effort by the whole expedition, but Tenzing revealed a few years later that Hillary had put his foot on the summit first. They paused at the summit to take photographs and buried a few sweets and a small cross in the snow before descending. News of the expedition's success reached London on the morning of Queen Elizabeth II's coronation. Returning to Kathmandu a few days later, Hillary and Hunt discovered that they had been promptly knighted for their efforts.
Climbing Routes - Mt. Everest
Mt. Everest has two main climbing routes, the southeast ridge from Nepal and the northeast ridge from Tibet, as well as many other less frequently climbed routes. Of the two main routes, the southeast ridge is technically easier and is the more frequently-used route. It was the route used by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953 and the first recognised of fifteen routes to the top by 1996. This was, however, a route decision dictated more by politics than by design as the Chinese border was closed to foreigners in 1949. Reinhold Messner (Italy) summited the mountain solo for the first time, without supplementary oxygen or support, on the more difficult Northwest route via the North Col to the North Face and the Great Couloir, on August 20 1980. He climbed for three days entirely alone from his base camp at 6500 meters. This route has been noted as the 8th climbing route to the summit.
Most attempts are made during April and May before the summer monsoon season. A change in the jet stream at this time of year reduces the average wind speeds high on the mountain. While attempts are sometimes made after the monsoons in September and October, the additional snow deposited by the monsoons and the less stable weather patterns makes climbing more challanging.
The ascent via the southeast ridge begins with a trek to Base Camp at 5,380 m (17,600 ft) on the south side of Everest in Nepal. Expeditions usually fly into Lukla (2,860 m) from Kathmandu and pass through Namche Bazaar. Climbers then hike to Base Camp, which usually takes six to eight days, allowing for proper altitude acclimatization in order to prevent altitude sickness. Climbing equipment and supplies are carried by yaks, dzopkyos (yak hybrids) and human porters to Base Camp on the Khumbu Glacier. When Hillary and Tenzing climbed Everest in 1953, they started from Kathmandu Valley, as there were no roads further east at that time.
Climbers will spend a few days in Base Camp, acclimatizing to the altitude. During that time, Sherpas and some expedition climbers will set up ropes and ladders in the treacherous Khumbu Icefall. Seracs, crevasses and shifting blocks of ice make the icefall one of the most dangerous sections of the route. Many climbers and Sherpas have been killed in this section. To reduce the hazard, climbers will usually begin their ascent well before dawn when the freezing temperatures glue ice blocks in place. Above the icefall is Camp I at 6,065 m (19,900 ft).
From Camp I, climbers make their way up the Western Cwm to the base of the Lhotse face, where Camp II or Advanced Base Camp (ABC) is established at 6,500 m (21,300 ft). The Western Cwm is a relatively flat, gently rising glacial valley, marked by huge lateral crevasses in the centre which prevent direct access to the upper reaches of the Cwm. Climbers are forced to cross on the far right near the base of Nuptse to a small passageway known as the "Nuptse corner". The Western Cwm is also called the "Valley of Silence" as the topography of the area generally cuts off wind from the climbing route. The high altitude and a clear, windless day can make the Western Cwm unbearably hot for climbers.
From ABC, climbers ascend the Lhotse face on fixed ropes up to Camp III, located on a small ledge at 7,470 m (24,500 ft). From there, it is another 500 metres to Camp IV on the South Col at 7,920 m (26,000 ft). From Camp III to Camp IV, climbers are faced with two additional challenges: The Geneva Spur and The Yellow Band. The Geneva Spur is an anvil shaped rib of black rock named by a 1952 Swiss expedition. Fixed ropes assist climbers in scrambling over this snow covered rock band. The Yellow Band is a section of sedimentary sandstone which also requires about 100 metres of rope for traversing it.
On the South Col, climbers enter the death zone. Climbers typically only have a maximum of two or three days they can endure at this altitude for making summit bids. Clear weather and low winds are critical factors in deciding whether to make a summit attempt. If weather does not cooperate within these short few days, climbers are forced to descend, many all the way back down to Base Camp.
From Camp IV, climbers will begin their summit push around midnight with hopes of reaching the summit (still another 1,000 metres above) within 10 to 12 hours. Climbers will first reach "The Balcony" at 8,400 m (27,700 ft), a small platform where they can rest and gaze at peaks to the south and east in the early dawn light. Continuing up the ridge, climbers are then faced with a series of imposing rock steps which usually forces them to the east into waist deep snow, a serious avalanche hazard. At 8,750 m (28,700 ft), a small table-sized dome of ice and snow marks the South Summit.
From the South Summit, climbers follow the knife-edge southeast ridge along what is known as the "Cornice traverse" where snow clings to intermittent rock. This is the most exposed section of the climb as a misstep to the left would send one 2,400 m (8,000 ft) down the southwest face while to the immediate right is the 3,050 m (10,000 ft) Kangshung face. At the end of this traverse is an imposing 12 m (40 ft) rock wall called the "Hillary Step" at 8,760 m (28,750 ft).
Hillary and Tenzing were the first climbers to ascend this step and they did it with primitive ice climbing equipment and without fixed ropes. Nowadays, climbers will ascend this step using fixed ropes previously set up by Sherpas. Once above the step, it is a comparatively easy climb to the top on moderately angled snow slopes - though the exposure on the ridge is extreme especially while traversing very large cornices of snow. After the Hillary Step, climbers also must traverse a very loose and rocky section that has a very large entanglement of fixed ropes that can be troublesome in bad weather. Climbers will typically spend less than a half-hour on "top of the world" as they realize the need to descend to Camp IV before darkness sets in, afternoon weather becomes a serious problem, or supplemental oxygen tanks run out.
For Royalty of Nepal Mountains, Click Here...
Day 01: Arrival in kathmandu, move to Hotel.
Day 02: One and Half hour drive to Nagarkot. Accommodation in luxury tents for acclimatization.
Day 03: Early morning sunrise view of the mountains. Visit some highest points to observe kathmandu Valley & overnight at camp.
Day 04: Fly to Lukla Airport(2,800m) and trek begins for Phakding(2640m). Overnight at Phakding.
Day 05: Trek to Namche Bazar(3,446m). Overnight at Namche.
Day 06: Trek to Khumjung(3790m). Overnight at Khumjung.
Day 07: Trek to Tengboche Monastery (3860m).
Day 08: Trek to Dingboche.(4300)
Day 09: Trek to Lobuche(4900m)
Day 10: Trek to GorakShep(5,200m)
Day 11: Trek to Everest Base Camp and back to GorakShep
Days 12-55: Climbing Period Mt. Everest.
Day 56: Cleaning up Base Camp.
Day 57: Trek to Pheriche(4280m) Overnight in Lodge.
Day 58: Trek Back to Khumjung.. Overnight in Lodge.
Day 59: Trek back to Manjo. Overnight in Lodge.
Day 60: Trek back to Lukla. Overnight in Lodge.
Day 61: Fly back to Kathmandu. Transfer to Hotel.
The northeast ridge route begins from the north side of Everest in Tibet. Expeditions trek to the Rongbuk Glacier, setting up Base Camp at 5,180 m (17,000 ft) on a gravel plain just below the glacier. To reach Camp II, climbers ascend the medial moraine of the east Rongbuk Glacier up to the base of Changtse at around 6,100 m (20,000 ft). Camp III (ABC - Advanced Base Camp) is situated below the North Col at 6,500 m (21,300 ft). To reach Camp IV on the north col, climbers ascend the glacier to the foot of the col where fixed ropes are used to reach the North Col at 7,010 m (23,000 ft). From the North Col, climbers ascend the rocky north ridge to set up Camp V at around 7,775 m (25,500 ft). The route goes up the north face through a series of gullies and steepens into downsloping slabby terrain before reaching the site of Camp VI at 8,230 m (27,000 ft). From Camp VI, climbers will make their final summit push. Climbers must first make their way through three rock bands known as First Step: 27,890 feet - 28,000 feet, Second Step: 28,140 feet - 28,300 feet, and Third Step: 28,510 feet - 28,870 feet. Once above these steps, the final summit slopes (50 to 60 degrees) to the top.
China is paving a 108-km (66-mile) dirt road from Tingri County to its Base Camp in order to accommodate growing numbers of climbers on their side of the mountain. It will become the highest asphalt-paved road in the world. Construction began on June 18, 2007, at a cost of 150 million yuan (US$19.7 million). China also plans on routing the 2008 Olympic Torch Relay over Everest, going up the South Col route and back down the North Col route, on the way to the 2008 Summer Olympics in Beijing.
Day 1: Arrival in kathmandu, move to Hotel.
Day 2: One and Half hour drive to Nagarkot. Accommodation in luxury tents for acclimatization.
Day 3: Early morning sunrise view of the mountains. Visit some highest points to observe.
Day 4: Fly to Lhasa. Overnight at hotel.
Day 5: Visit to Potala Jokhang and Barkhor.
Day 6: Visit to Drepung and Sera monasteries
Day 7: Free day in Lhasa.
Day 8: Drive to Shigatse(3900m). Overnight in Hotel.
Day 9: Drive to Shekar(4352m). Overnight in hotel
Day 10: Drive to Everest Base Camp(EBC). Overnight in Tent
Day 11-13: Acclimatization in EBC.
Day 14: Trek to Intermediate Camp(6200m).
Day 15: Trek to Advance Base Camp(6400m).
Day 16-53: Mt.Everest Climbing period.
Day 54: Return to advance base camp.
Day 55: Return to Base Camp.
Day 56: Cleaning of Base Camp.
Day 57: Drive to Nyalam. Overnight in hotel
Day 58: Drive to Kathmandu. Transfer to hotel.
- Flight to Lukla Airport from Katmandu, & back after expedition.
- Porters/Yaks to carry equipments and food all the way to BC & back.
- Full board accommodation en-route to/from Base camp.
- One head Climbing guide/Sardar.
- Cook & kitchen boys at BC.
- Experienced & skillful High Altitude Climbing Sherpa (One Sherpa for one Client)
- POISK Oxygen (08 bottles per client & 06 per Sherpa).
- Mask & regulator mask set ( must be return after the Expedition).
- Highly preferable meals at BC with complete hot drink & normal beverages.
- Exported High altitude food for higher camps (ready to eat food).
- Best quality Tents at BC single or twin sharing as per the client desire.
- All necessary kitchen equipment.
- Best quality Dinning tent with enough no of teble & chairs, plus inside the tent, we will set Gas Heaters to make the Dinning hall enough warm.
- Complete carpeting inside the dinning tent.
- Comfortable & portable wooden toilet at the base camp.
- A nice portable wooden shower room with hot water at the base camp.
- High quality high altitude tents for above BC use.
- Necessary climbing hardware gears with fixed ropes.
- Enough EPI (high altitude) gases with burners for higher camps use.
- Oxygen with regulator set for medical purpose.
- Radio walkie-talkie set to each client with base station & permit cost.
- Satellite phone for emergency purpose ($ 4 chargeable for personal call).
- Generator/solar panel with accessories for recharging & power supply purpose.
- Gammov bag for medical purpose.
- Insurance of all local team members.
- All airport/hotel transfers.
- Day tour program around KTM.
- Celebration meal & pre-briefing.
- Expedition blessing Puja arrangement at Katmandu and Base camp.
- Last but most important COMPLETE SET UP INTERM/MIDDLE CAMP with sleeping bags, sleeping mattress, food & drinking stuff & cooking crew.
- Personal insurance ( Suggested to have evacuation policy as well)
- Nepal visa
- Major meals in Kathmandu.
- Personal climbing gears.
- Personal natures expenses.
- Cost of emergency evacuation.
- Summit bonus & Tips.
- Everest Expedition - 58 Days & 61 Days
- Amadablam Expedition (6812m) 22349ft - 27 Days
- Kanchenjunga Expedition - 60 Days
- Makalu Expedition (8462m) 27765ft - 47 / 59 Days
- Thamserku Expedition - 27 Days
- Pumori Expedition - 30 Days
- Lhotse Expedition - 30 Days
- Shisapangma Expedition - 40 Days
- Cholatse Expedition (6440m) 21130ft - 22 Days
- Cho Oyu Expedition 8,201m. / 26,906ft. - 40 Days
- Hungchi Expedition - 38 Days
- Lobuche Expedition - 19 Days
- Royalty of Nepal Mountain Climbing